This article was originally published in Mexican cuisine.
Destilería Revés, the latest project of winemaker Hans Backhoff, produces whiskey, vodka and gin from corn and other high-quality Mexican ingredients.
By Evelyn Castro
In 2018, Hans Backhoff discovered the need to enhance Mexican corn in the world of spirits; the idea of breaking paradigms and making Mexico known through beverages convinced him to found Destilería Revés .
Hans assembled a team to carry out tests aimed at enhancing the flavour of corn; other national ingredients were later added to achieve the final product. Experts in winemaking, but passionate about spirits, joined the project.
“In Mexico there is a lot of experience in the production of spirits, but corn is not used frequently and with the elegance needed to enhance its flavor between each sip. That is why we started making fine products based on a very Mexican raw material,” says winemaker Hans Backhoff, in an interview with Culinaria Mexicana .
Three categories of distillates
Over time, Destilería Revés worked on and perfected three categories of corn-based spirits : whiskey, gin and vodka.
Cousin Rose
Prima Rosa is a handcrafted gin made with a blend of freshly harvested botanicals such as wild lavender, rosemary and sage flowers from the Guadalupe Valley ; hoja santa from Oaxaca ; Yucatecan lemon peel, and roses, epazote and ginger from Ensenada , combined in a classic base of juniper berries and coriander seeds.
Prima Rosa was distilled five times with corn and has an alcohol volume of 40 percent. On the palate, the herbaceous notes of its ingredients stand out, softened with a floral character and a subtle touch of hoja santa, ginger and Yucatecan lemon.
“We have botanical ingredients with a strong base of juniper and coriander seeds. These compounds give complexity to traditional gin, and we launch it into the floral and herbaceous part in a very Mexican way,” explains the winemaker and son of the founder of Monte Xanic .
Drako
Drako is a 100% corn vodka, distilled five times, and filtered twice in activated coconut carbon and in a 0.45 micron filter.
This complex process results in a vodka with no added sugar, a light corn aroma, and hints of vanilla.
“With vodka we try to highlight the typicality of corn because, although we are making a neutral product like vodka, what we are looking for is a more pronounced corn flavor that stands out in the final product. After five distillations we obtain a very elegant, pure vodka, with vanilla accents.”
Backhand Whiskey (blue)
With a limited edition release of 2,000 bottles , this whiskey is made with blue corn and was aged in new American oak barrels for six years.
As a tribute to this species, Destilería Revés uses 87.5% blue corn, 12% rye and 0.5% malted barley, in a mixture that results in 40% alcohol content, which in the mouth translates into flavors of light oak, apple, pear, hints of vanilla, dried chili peppers and a delicate final note of peat.
Whiskey Reverse (Black)
This whiskey is aged for three years in new American oak barrels, then aged for six months in mezcal barrels from small producers in Oaxaca.
The mezcal casks give this whisky a smoky finish with light oak flavours, vanilla, caramel, raisins, ripe berries, tobacco and chocolate.
With 40% alcohol content, Revés Whisky Negra is composed of 75% corn, 24% rye and 1% malted barley.
“The intention of this style is to preserve all the characteristics of what a whiskey should taste like, but with an additional fine touch, towards the complexity that generates a little of the smokiness and toastiness that mezcal has,” the specialist shares.
Whiskey Reverse (Red)
This edition is aged for three years in new American oak barrels, then aged for six months in a combination of Cabernet Sauvignon wine barrels from the Guadalupe Valley , and barrels from the Port of Tawny in Northern California.
This whiskey was crafted to celebrate North America's two finest wine regions , with a complex fruit and tannin flavor, while balancing sweetness and harshness with a smooth finish.
Made from 75% corn, 24% rye and 1% barley, Red reaches 40% alcohol content, and has tasting notes of vanilla, caramel, dried dark fruits, soft tannins and a lush mouthfeel.
Revés Distillery Gives Mexican Corn a Twist
The master winemaker says that Destilería Revés seeks to be an innovative brand that can give a twist or a dual use to products that exalt Mexico.
“With Destilería Revés we want to turn the tables, because we want this product to be an initiator of change and it was exactly what we needed to start being recognized for corn distillates: it is like turning the tables.”
Hans says that these products are on sale in different parts of Mexico thanks to an alliance made with the European company . At the time, they also seek to introduce the spirits to the restaurant industry.
